10-Feb-2023
We shoved everybody into the car and drove to the train station to go up to Viareggio. I swear we left with plenty of time, but poor Dan still had to hustle to get the car parked and onto the train in time.
This time we paid extra for a direct train. I think it was a good idea.
Ah yes, the two things to do on a train, sleep and watch tv.
We walked from the train station in Viareggio to our Airbnb.
KC's being a dragon.
Various houses/apartments were decorated for Carnivale.
11-Feb-2023
The Airbnb didn't have a highchair, so we improvised at breakfast.
For some reason we decided to walk out to the Carnivale museum.
In doing so, we passed this cemetery.
Many of the graves had photos of the deceased, which isn't as common in the US.
Some of the gravestones are pretty elaborate.
Then we walked a bit more, had to renavigate after Google maps wanted us to go down a blocked road, had to cross a highway roundabout thing and eventually made it to the Viareggio Carnivale Museum.
KC celebrating that we made it to the museum.
We were here!
This is also where they build the floats.
We were lucky that a few of the hangers were open and we could see inside.
Giant Voodoo!
Extras? Recycled pieces from previous floats? Who knows?!
What's Carnival without a Pope head?
Looking back out to the street through the hanger's central courtyard thing.
This is the museum, cafe, and archives.
A tiger! RAAAAAAR!
1559 - Carnivale is represented by a fat, round, and colorful man, sitting astride a barrel while holding a roasting spit and balancing a meat pie on his head. A figure dressed in yellow, the color representing deception, is pushing him. Lent, on the other hand, takes on the form of a very thin woman, dressed as a nun, who is holding up a wooden paddle with two herrings on it. A cart transports the typical dishes of Lent - salted donuts, waffles and mussels, which starkly contrast the abundance of beer, bread, and meat surrounding Carnivale.
1810 - Form the beginning of the 1800s, Carnivale parades consisted only of carriages that were owned by the wealthiest social classes and transported several masked characters. Here, Harlequin stands on the carriage while seemingly pointing at the two characters in the center of the representation. Their clothing alludes to the transition from the old regime to the revolutionary one.
Some of these characters are having too much fun.
1930s - Carnivale in Viareggio
1931 - Burlamacco, the last member of the Commedia dell'Arte, becomes the Viareggio mascot.
How to make a Carnivale float:
The Sketch - Every Spring the Foundation of the Carnivale di Viareggio publishes a call for entries. In Summer, master papier-mache artists submit their sketches. Once approved, the old floats are dismantled and the building of the new float begins. There are four types of entries - 1st category, 2nd category, group masquerades, and individual masquerades.
The Model - The artists usually build a scale model of their floats. This allows them to study volumes, proportions, colors, movements, etc.
The Construction - Throughout Winter, the artist and their teams work on their floats. First they build an iron frame and carpentry work essential to the stability and movement of the float. Then the large papier-mache figures are created, assembled, and colored.
How to make a papier-mache figure.
Raw vs painted sides of a papier-mache figure. Also Max.
Hey! I've seen that tiger somewhere before!
1st Category floats are built on 84 square-meter platforms and can be more than 20 meters high (~900 sqft and ~65 ft.) 2nd Category floats cannot be taller than 11 meters (~36ft). Group Masquerades are made of up to 6 elements that can reach 3 meters in height. Individual Masquerades are composed of a single element that can also be a maximum of 3 meters high.
Here are a few of the models from past years:
1994 - Moby Dick: the White Whale
2001 - The Ruins of Italy
2018 - Red Poppies
2022 - The Dreamer
Costumes for the Commedia dell'Arte.
Now with Dan AND Max!
There was a carousel outside the museum and near the hangers.
And confetti. So we did this for awhile.
MarioKart.
Firetruck.
Turns out one of the hangers was a second part of the museum housing past figures:
Iowa?
Alice in Wonderland.
Hey! We were there!
Ginormous African figure.
Picasso and van Gogh.
Frida and....Gulliver's Travels.
Dan and fabulous costumes.
More tigers. RAAAAAAR!
More of the African lady and Noah's Ark.
Sketch and model of a float that transformed from the bomb to clowns promoting peace.
The Addams Family.
Tigers, and Lady, and Ark! Oh my!
Scale reference.
Burlamacco is usually depicted as arriving from the sea.
Seahorses for Sherrie.
KC taking in the whole thing.
Some older figures set up outside.
A collection of skulls....for reasons...
Captain America rides again!
Max and KC vs the teeter totter.
Max does not want to leave. We had a little snack and drink and decided to head out.
More of the hangers had opened up. Bacchus?
Star Wars and a Day of the Dead clergyman?
Laurel and Hardy?
Musk Attacks.
Bye Burlamacco!
Say Carnivale!
We walked along a canal to get to the beachfront.
And spotted a muskrat.
And several more as we walked along.
Also this, I think, leucitic duck. (It's like albinism, but without the red eyes.)
We found my dad's dream car. A flatbed full of wine.
KC and Dan and the art!
I had clearly been looking into the sun for too long, because I was arguing with everyone else that this building was green. It clearly isn't. I like it anyway, but it would be better if it were green. Everyone was a little hangry so we stopped and got some snacks.
Marina Militare is the Italian Navy. It's also a clothing store, apparently.
Llama hat!
Also a toothbrush is a fun toy when you're teething.
We made it to the beach in time for sunset.
Sea and mountains? I could get used to this.
SAND!
Grandma contemplating the sunset.
No green flash with this sunset.
Awww, out of focus sisters.
We were there!
Goodnight from Max!
